Blackmagic Camera Field Setup
iPhone 17 Pro + iPad — Service Point Training Videos
Project Configuration
| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| Device | iPhone 17 Pro |
| Codec | Apple H.265 (HEVC) |
| Resolution | 3840 × 2160 (4K UHD) |
| Frame rate | 30 fps |
| Shutter | 180° angle (1/60) |
| Color | Apple Log (Rec. 709 LUT on phone; iPad monitor has no LUT) |
| Recording | External SSD via USB-C |
| Monitor | iPad via Blackmagic Camera multi-device |
Why These Settings
HEVC instead of ProRes — ProRes 4K runs around 735 Mbps and pushed the SSD past its sustained-write speed. HEVC 4K runs roughly 60–100 Mbps. Quality is visually indistinguishable for talking-head and demonstration content, and it solves the speed problem with margin.
Apple Log with a Rec. 709 LUT applied on the phone — More dynamic range than Rec. 709 for situations where lighting is less than ideal. A Rec. 709 LUT is applied in-app on the phone for monitoring, making the footage look natural on screen. The iPad cannot take a LUT — it will show a flat, desaturated image. Use the phone display as the primary color reference. Edit in FCP (Premiere as fallback) — both have solid tools for applying and managing LUTs in post.
30 fps — Standard for informational and web-first content. Pairs with a 1/60 shutter for natural motion.
Day-Before Prep
- Charge iPhone and iPad to 100%. Bring two power banks or a wall charger.
- Bring at least one spare USB-C cable known to carry data at speed. Use the Insta360 cable — the DJI cable does not work reliably.
- Format the SSD as exFAT, confirm free space.
- Update the Blackmagic Camera app to current version. Do not update mid-shoot.
- Do a 60-second test recording at home with all final settings. Play back from SSD on a Mac. Confirm no dropped-frame warnings.
- Pack: external mic, mic cables, headphones, white card, lens cloth, tripod plate, monitor hood for iPad if available.
Part 1 — Device Calibration
Do this on both the iPhone and the iPad before opening the Blackmagic Camera app. The goal is to lock both displays to a consistent, predictable state so what you see during a take matches what gets recorded.
In iOS Settings (both devices):
- Display & Brightness → True Tone: OFF (shifts white balance based on room light)
- Display & Brightness → Night Shift: OFF (warms the screen toward orange)
- Accessibility → Display & Text Size → Auto-Brightness: OFF
- Accessibility → Display & Text Size → Reduce White Point: OFF
- Accessibility → Display & Text Size → Color Filters: OFF
- Brightness: set to a fixed level on both, matched by eye. ~75% indoors, max outdoors. Do not touch it once shooting starts.
- Do Not Disturb: ON during shooting (no banners or call interruptions over the preview).
Part 2 — Network Setup
Both devices must be on the same network before the app can pair them.
- Option A (location Wi-Fi): Connect iPhone and iPad to the same Wi-Fi network.
- Option B (Personal Hotspot): iPhone Settings → Personal Hotspot → ON. Connect iPad to iPhone's hotspot. Use this if location Wi-Fi is crowded or causing lag.
Part 3 — App Settings (iPhone / Camera)
Open the Blackmagic Camera app on the iPhone. Tap the gear icon and work through each section.
Record / Project
- Codec: Apple H.265
- Quality: HQ / High (highest HEVC option)
- Resolution: 3840 × 2160 (4K UHD)
- Frame rate: 30 fps
- Project frame rate: 30 fps (match)
- Proxy Recording: ON (1080p) — required for iPad playback
- Storage location: External — confirm the SSD name appears. If not: check cable seating, confirm SSD is formatted exFAT, try a different USB-C cable.
- Project name:
ServicePoint_Training(or per location)
Exposure & Shutter
- ISO: Manual. Base ISO 100 in bright light, 400–800 indoors. Lock before each take.
- Shutter: 180° angle (1/60 at 30 fps). Cinematic motion default.
- White balance: Manual. Set with a white card at each location. Auto WB will drift between takes.
- Tint: Leave to post. Don't adjust tint during production — it's difficult to judge accurately on set and can be dialed in much more precisely on a studio monitor in post.
Focus & Framing
- Focus: Autofocus — no focus wheel available on this rig. Will be a shot-by-shot decision if the camera isn't locking on the subject. Focus peaking ON as a reference.
- Zebras: ON at 95%. Anything striped is blown — faces should never zebra.
- False color: ON. Use it to match exposure between shots and confirm skin-tone exposure precisely.
- Frame guides: 16:9 (matches delivery aspect for training video).
Audio
- Source: External mic if connected (lav, shotgun via interface). Phone mic is scratch/backup only.
- Levels: Set manually. Peaks at −12 to −6 dB. Never touch 0.
- Headphone monitor: ON. Always listen during the take, not just check meters.
Stabilization & Misc
- Image stabilization: OFF on tripod, ON handheld.
- LUT preview: Apply the Rec. 709 LUT on the phone for monitoring. This gives you an accurate-looking reference on the phone display. The iPad will show flat/desaturated Log — that's expected.
- Gridlines / level indicator: ON for framing.
- Lens selection: Use the main (1×) lens by default — best sensor, lowest noise, sharpest. Use the telephoto only if reach is needed; avoid the ultra-wide unless the shot specifically calls for it.
Remote Control Tab
- Remote Control: ON
- Use This Device As: Camera
Part 4 — App Setup (iPad / Monitor)
Open the Blackmagic Camera app on the iPad.
Remote Control Tab
- Remote Control: ON
- Use This Device As: Controller
- Activate by tapping the 3 dots, then the phone-with-wifi-waves icon.
Connection Sequence
- Plug SSD into iPhone (wait for "USB-C" indicator in app).
- On iPad, tap the Camera icon (top left).
- Select iPhone (or your named device) from the list.
- Verify: You see the live video feed.
- Test: Hit Record on iPad. Stop. Play back via the Media tab — confirm proxy plays smoothly.
Part 5 — Monitoring on the iPad
The iPad shows a transmitted, slightly compressed preview of what the iPhone sensor sees. Good for framing, focus, and gross exposure. Not pixel-accurate for color.
Trust the iPad for:
- Framing and composition
- Focus (with peaking ON)
- Gross exposure — is the subject clearly too dark or too bright?
- Action, blocking, performance
Do not trust the iPad for:
- Exact color rendering (the iPad has no LUT — it shows flat Log, not the graded image)
- Fine exposure decisions
- Subtle contrast or saturation judgments
For color, trust the phone display — the Rec. 709 LUT is applied there. It's the most accurate live reference on set.
Trust the camera's exposure tools instead:
- Zebras at 95% — faces should never zebra
- False color — precise exposure map
- Histogram — watch for clipping at either end
- Audio meters — peaks at −12 to −6 dB
If those four are clean, you are exposed correctly regardless of how the iPad looks.
iPad positioning: Keep the iPad out of direct sun and harsh overhead lighting. A small monitor hood helps significantly. The iPad is the director's view for framing and action. The iPhone display is the color reference — use it for critical color checks.
Part 6 — Calibration Test (once per location)
Before rolling on real material at each location, do this once. Takes five minutes, saves the rest of the day.
- Frame a subject in the lighting you will actually shoot in. A person is ideal — skin tones are the giveaway.
- Record a 30-second clip with all settings dialed in. Move the camera during the test to check for gimbal overcorrection.
- Pull the file off the SSD onto a Mac with a known-good display.
- Compare what was recorded to what the iPad showed during the take.
- Note any consistent shift ("iPad reads slightly cool," "iPad pushes contrast") and mentally correct for it the rest of the day.
Part 7 — Pre-Roll Checklist
Run through this before every take. Once it's muscle memory it takes about 20 seconds.
- ☐ SSD connected, name visible in app
- ☐ Storage shows enough capacity
- ☐ Codec, resolution, frame rate confirmed (HEVC / 4K UHD / 30 fps)
- ☐ ISO locked manually for current lighting
- ☐ Shutter at 180° / 1/60
- ☐ White balance set for current lighting (white card if changed)
- ☐ Focus locked on subject (autofocus — confirm lock before rolling)
- ☐ No zebras on faces or important highlights
- ☐ Audio source confirmed (external mic, not phone mic)
- ☐ Audio levels peaking −12 to −6 dB
- ☐ Headphones monitoring live audio
- ☐ Stabilization matches mode (tripod = OFF, handheld = ON)
- ☐ Brightness on iPhone and iPad unchanged from calibration
- ☐ Rec. 709 LUT applied on phone display
- ☐ Frame composition checked on iPhone display, not just iPad
Part 8 — End of Shoot
- Confirm every take is on the SSD before disconnecting anything.
- Stop and exit the Blackmagic Camera app cleanly — never yank cables mid-write.
- Eject the SSD properly from iOS (Files app → external drive → eject).
- Back up the SSD contents during lunch and again at end of day — don't wait until everything is wrapped. Data rate is approximately 300 GB per 10 minutes of footage. Target at least 1 TB free on the backup drive.
- Back up as much as possible to cloud overnight.
- Note any issues encountered for the next shoot day — pass to Jonathan if relevant.
Troubleshooting
SSD not appearing in app
- Re-seat both ends of the cable
- Confirm exFAT formatting
- Use the Insta360 cable — the DJI cable does not work reliably
- Force-quit and restart the Blackmagic Camera app
Frame drops or recording stops unexpectedly
- Confirm codec is HEVC, not ProRes
- Check SSD free space
- Phone overheating? Move out of sun, reduce screen brightness, give it a 5-minute cool-down
- Close other apps in the background
iPad preview lagging or disconnecting
- Switch to Personal Hotspot if on crowded location Wi-Fi
- Lower iPad preview quality in app settings if available
- Disconnect and reconnect the multi-device session
Black screen on iPad
- Tap the iPhone screen to wake it
No SSD detected after connecting
- Force-quit app → plug in SSD → re-open app
Audio sounds wrong
- Verify external mic is selected in the app, not phone mic
- Check interface power and gain (if using a USB audio interface)
- Watch levels in real time — peaks at −12 to −6 dB
- Listen through headphones during the take, not just between takes
Phone overheating
- Move out of direct sun
- Reduce screen brightness
- Take a 5-minute cool-down between takes
- A passive heatsink case helps significantly for long shoot days